The rocks look as if they have been painted with tiger stripes of red and gold, as the sun slowly sets over the Bardenas Reales. The wind gusts the grasses and dried weeds, as a flock of larks burst out of the brush, flying low over the road ahead. It’s quiet, apart from our rattling campervan, as we enter the natural park, and wind our way down further into the Bardenas Blancas. In the distance we can see the famous Castildetierra… and as we traversed the plains, we felt like banditos at the end of a grand escapade! Come read our story, and discover what happened to us at our wild camping spot in Europe’s only desert and why it made a hilarious Adventure journal entry!! (or scroll to the end for the TLDR)
Las Bardenas Reales by Campervan: Our Family Adventure in Spain’s Desert Landscape
After ten days exploring Northern Spain by camper van, we were heading south from Santander towards our final stop before returning to Barcelona. We had been choosing stops that offered something interesting for everyone. Sometimes that meant landscapes, sometimes wildlife, a lot of fishing spots, and sometimes just somewhere that felt like an adventure. Bardenas Reales ticked many boxes: an unusual landscape, the chance to explore somewhere completely different, and, importantly for our family, some excellent birdwatching opportunities.
Our route south took us first to Salto del Nervión, famous for being Spain’s highest waterfall, with an impressive drop of around 222 metres.
When we visited in summer, the waterfall was completely dry. The viewpoint itself however, is spectacular. Standing at the edge of the limestone cliffs and looking down into the valley below is not for the faint-hearted, and even without the waterfall flowing, the scale of the landscape is incredible, and for me, somewhat vomit inducing!
While it might sound disappointing to visit a waterfall with no water, the experience was still absolutely worth it. The walk to the falls was beautiful, taking us through a much more forested landscape than we expected. We kept our eyes open for woodpeckers, and the karst limestone springs along the route were full of life, with frogs, toads and newts making the most of the water that remained.
The real surprise, however, was above us.
The cliffs attract soaring birds, and we were lucky enough to spot two different species of vulture. The Griffon Vultures were impressive as they circled overhead, but seeing an Egyptian Vulture was a real highlight. It was an unexpected wildlife encounter and a great start to what would become one of our favourite stops of the trip.
From there, we continued south towards Navarra and the strange, otherworldly landscape of Bardenas Reales.
Arriving at Bardenas Reales for Golden Hour
We timed our arrival perfectly, reaching the park just before golden hour and sunset. We had read online that the park closes in the evening, but when we arrived, it didn’t really seem that way. There were still plenty of cars driving through the area, and photographers were setting up in the best locations to capture the last light hitting the rock formations.
And honestly, we understood why. The colours changed constantly as the sun dropped lower, turning the landscape into something completely different every few minutes.
Exploring Bardenas Reales by Campervan
One of the questions we had before visiting was whether exploring Bardenas Reales by campervan would be practical. Our camper van is just over 7 metres long, so we weren’t exactly travelling in a small vehicle. Thankfully, it was absolutely fine.
The park is relatively compact, and the main routes through Bardenas Blancas are easy enough to navigate, even in a larger campervan. The roads are mostly gravel, though, so it is definitely worth taking your time. The surface is not difficult, but it is bumpy and very rattly. Your van will be noisy. Everything inside the cupboards seemed determined to remind us that it was there!
The slower pace actually suited the landscape though. This is not somewhere you want to rush through. Every corner brings another view, another strange rock formation, or another opportunity to stop and look.
One of the unexpected advantages of exploring in a campervan was the height. Sitting higher than a normal car gave us a much better view across the plains, which was fantastic for spotting wildlife.
And wildlife was one of the reasons we had chosen Bardenas Reales in the first place.
Birdwatching in Spain’s Desert Landscape
One of the great things about travelling as a family is that the things you initially think might appeal to only one person often end up becoming something everyone gets involved in. Our son had a few target birds he was hoping to find, and suddenly every drive through the desert became a reason to stop, scan the horizon and check the rocks.
One of the speciality birds of the area is the Pin-tailed Sandgrouse, and we were lucky enough to spot one.
The incredible thing was just how well camouflaged he was. Against the sandy colours of the landscape, he almost completely disappeared. Even when we knew exactly where he was, it was amazing how quickly he blended back into the surroundings.
We also spotted lots of little Red-legged Partridges running around, often followed by tiny chicks. Watching them hurry across the tracks was one of those small moments that makes exploring slowly worthwhile. Of course, there was one bird we were really hoping to see: Owls.
We had chosen Bardenas Reales partly because of the possibility of seeing Little Owls, but our first evening search didn’t produce anything.
We would have better luck the next morning.
Our Wild Camping Attempt in Bardenas Reales… and the Mosquito Apocalypse
Throughout our trip through Spain, we had mostly been wild camping. We had used apps to find recommended overnight stops, mixed with plenty of Google Maps detective work and a bit of intuition. It does take some getting used to.
In Spain, sleeping in your vehicle is generally permitted as long as you are not showing signs of “camping behaviour”. That means no chairs and tables outside, no awnings extended, no campfires, no towels or shoes left outside, and no taking over or obstructing an area. We had found some fantastic places this way.
For this particular night, we found what looked like a beautiful spot with a backdrop of the striped hills, just outside the natural preserve of the Bardenas Reales. It was exactly the kind of place you imagine when you picture travelling by campervan.
We had just parked, taken a tiny stroll around to check out the spot and started making dinner when the APOCALYPSE struck.
Over a bazillion gazillion mosquitoes swarmed us. It was bonkers. They were bashing themselves against all of our mosquito nets, on every window and door. We couldn’t believe our eyes.
And then they started getting through the netting.
The ceiling was quickly covered in mosquitoes. We were swatting them like crazy, but they just kept coming. It was impossible to keep up. We hurriedly finished our dinner while battling mosquitoes until eventually we were completely inundated and hopelessly outnumbered.
We gave in.
Our beautiful wild camping spot was abandoned, and we headed off in search of somewhere else to sleep.
The Unexpected Winner: Arguedas Camper Area
Thankfully, we didn’t have far to go.
We headed to the Área de Autocaravanas in Arguedas, and it turned out to be a fantastic place to spend the night.
Although it was busy during the summer holidays, it was actually a brilliant overnight stop. It is free unless you want access to the swimming pool, and after our mosquito disaster, the most important thing was that it was completely mosquito-free. There was a lovely breeze when we visited, although I obviously can’t guarantee that will always be the case.
The best part, though, was the view.
The camper area looks towards the unique cave houses built into the sandy hills around Arguedas. These unusual homes are fascinating to explore and were another unexpected highlight for the kiddo.
Looking back, this stop was actually better than our original wild camping plan in many ways. It was close to Bardenas Reales, easy, comfortable, and gave us a great base for our early start the next day.
Later, we realised exactly why our original parking spot had been such a disaster.
We had parked right next to a rice paddy. Mystery solved.
In hindsight, arriving somewhere completely new at dusk is probably not the ideal time to find an overnight spot, but being adventurous is part of what makes travelling by campervan so much fun. Sometimes the places that go wrong become the stories you remember most.
Sunrise in Bardenas Reales
After a great night’s sleep (and a wonderfully level parking spot!), we were up before sunrise and headed back into Bardenas Reales.
This time, we were almost completely alone. Again, there were no sign of any closed gates despite lots of online places saying the natural reserve only opened at a specific time.
There were no crowds, no photographers, and no other vehicles exploring the park. Just us, the desert, and the slowly changing morning light. Watching a huge ball of orange fire rise above the rocky landscape was incredible. The strange formations that had looked dramatic the evening before now appeared completely different in the soft morning light.
But we had one thing we were hoping to find: Little Owls.
And this time, we were lucky. We spotted around four Little Owls perched on the ruins of old shepherds’ huts, perfectly silhouetted against the morning sky. It was one of those moments that makes travelling worth it. A bird we had never seen before, in a landscape we had never explored before, together as a family. Another amazing tick in our Adventure Journal.
Slowly, we drove back through the desert in our home on wheels and began the final journey back towards Barcelona.
Is Bardenas Reales Worth Visiting With Kids?
Absolutely.
For our family, Bardenas Reales worked because there was something for everyone. The landscape was fascinating, the camper van adventure made it feel like an expedition, and the wildlife turned every drive into a discovery.
There are plenty of hikes and bike routes in the area, but during summer it is worth keeping walks short because it can get incredibly hot and there is very little shade. Some areas of the park are also sensitive nature reserves, protecting nesting Eagles, owls, vultures and other wildlife. These areas are often only accessible by hiking, and some distances may not be suitable for younger children.
For us, simply driving around the park was the perfect way to explore. The height of the campervan gave us fantastic views and made birdwatching much easier.
We would absolutely wild camp again during future travels through Spain. It remains one of our favourite ways to explore, especially because in many areas it is possible to do so responsibly. The important thing is always to leave places exactly as you found them. Don’t leave rubbish behind, and if you see litter that someone else has left, picking it up helps protect these beautiful places for everyone.
Would we recommend one night in Bardenas Reales? Definitely.
One night is enough to experience the magic, especially if you can enjoy both sunset and sunrise. If you have more time and want to hike, cycle or spend longer birdwatching, two nights would allow for a slower visit.
For us, Bardenas Reales was the perfect final stop: a little bit wild, a little bit unpredictable, and full of the kind of family memories that make travelling by campervan so special.
TLDR:
Bardenas Reales Campervan Highlights: Quick Guide
- Can you drive around Bardenas Reales in a campervan? Yes. Even a 7-metre campervan is fine; expect gravel roads and a bumpy ride.
- Is Bardenas Reales worth visiting? Definitely. The landscapes and wildlife are incredible.
- Is Bardenas Reales good with kids? Yes. Great for exploring, wildlife spotting and adventure.
- Can you stay overnight inside Bardenas Reales? No. Stay nearby instead.
- Where should you stay near Bardenas Reales? The Área de Autocaravanas in Arguedas is our recommendation, especially in summer, with a pool and easy access. Also try Cabanillas Area de Autocaravanas for shady camping.
- Should you wild camp near Bardenas Reales? Yes in cooler months; in summer, beware of mosquitoes.
- Is wild camping legal in Spain? Generally yes, if you are parked legally and not “camping”.
- Is Bardenas Reales good for birdwatching? Yes. We spotted owls, vultures, sandgrouse and partridges.
- How long do you need in Bardenas Reales? One night is enough; two gives you more time to explore.
- Would we return? Absolutely. It was a highlight of our Spain campervan trip.
- Take a Zwela Journal Adventure journal and learn all about desert adventures!
Map of the Bardenas Reales
Our route took us from Arguedas along the Bardenas Blanca road, past the rock formation known as the Castildetierra, and then we turned up via the Bardena Alta and exited at the top of the desert.
Sitting on the dry earth, less than two feet from a family of meerkats as they dug up and devoured scorpion after scorpion, was not how I imagined spending my morning. If you’d ever asked me whether I would happily sit on the ground while scorpions were being pulled from the very earth beneath me, I would have laughed and said absolutely not. Yet there I was, completely captivated. The meerkats were finding scorpions everywhere! The landscape looked barren, just dry grass and dusty earth stretching into the distance, but beneath the surface was a hidden world teeming with life. It was a lesson in noticing. Looking around, I would never have guessed how many scorpions were living just a few digs below the ground.
Our adventure began with an open 4×4 ride from Planet Baobab Campsite. Along the way, our guide stopped to tell us about the baobab trees scattered across the landscape. We drove on dusty roads, seeing hardly another vehicle, or person, with the wind in our hair and the growing excitement of the adventure ahead. Our first stop was to meet a mob of habituated meerkats. I’ll admit, I was initially hesitant by the words “habituated”. I don’t enjoy seeing wild animals fed or tamed for tourism, but thankfully, that wasn’t the case here. Habituated simply meant the meerkats were used to people being nearby and carried on with their lives completely unfazed by our presence. After a quick briefing on meerkat etiquette – don’t touch, don’t disturb, don’t make too much noise – we walked out onto the dry grassland.
We sped across the pan, taking it all in, with the occasionally mouthful of dust when the wind changed direction. We quickly learned the importance of keeping a healthy dust-distance from the bike in front. The feeling was exhilarating, freedom, open space, and adventure in every direction. By late afternoon we arrived at what was to be our camp for the evening. 
A simple canvas toilet stood off to one side, just four canvas walls, no roof, just views for miles. A fire was being lit, and a table was set for dinner. Our roll mats had been laid out around the edge of camp beneath the open sky. As we settled in with an ice-cold drink and chatted around the fire, the sun began to sink below the horizon. Dinner was a delicious three-course meal cooked in the middle of nowhere, somehow tasting even better because of where we were. 
Then the stars appeared, and appeared, and didn’t stop appearing… With no light pollution for miles, the sky filled with more stars than we had ever seen. The Milky Way stretched overhead while the campfire crackled below. It was one of those moments where nobody reaches for a phone because everyone is simply taking it all in, and there was definitely no reception out in these parts.
